While the big trade shows in the watch industry, Baselworld and Watches and Wonders, have been cancelled for 2020, the auction show goes on. Some of the larger auction houses don’t have their showcase “Important Watches” auctions until later in the season, but there are a couple upcoming sales from Antiquorum and Watches of Knightsbridge worth highlighting. Additionally, Christie’s and Sotheby’s will be hosting a few online-only auctions over the next month (see our preview of Christie’s spring online auction here).
Let’s take a look at some of the most exciting lots from across the season’s early watch auctions.
Watches of Knightsbridge
Watches of Knightsbridge’s live auction will take place in London on March 28. Watches of Knightsbridge also hosts monthly online-only auctions that typically offer a range of affordable options for those looking to get into the auction game. Even this auction features an assortment of reasonably priced options: the highest estimate (at GBP 40,000) belongs to a Rolex Daytona reference 6262.
Jaeger LeCoultre Mark XI
Watches of Knightsbridge
I’m big on watches with military provenance, and this Jaeger LeCoultre delivers that in spades. The Mark 11 (XI) was launched in 1948 when IWC and JLC produced watches based on specifications for the British Ministry of Defense. IWC and JLC made similar, robust watches that met the MoD’s stringent requirements. However, JLC only made its version until the early 1950s, while IWC continued to produce its Mark XI until the 1980s, eventually selling theirs commercially. Inside the JLC ticks an anti-magnetic, chronometer-grade movement approved by MoD. Due to their rarity, these JLC Mark XIs offer an extraordinary value for a military-issued watch, especially considering the anti-magnetic, chronometer-grade, MoD-approved caliber inside.
The JLC Mark XI was made in two batches, the first delivered in 1949 and the second delivered in 1953. This is a first batch example, with case back engravings dating it to a 1948 production date.
But enough about the history: I love these military watches simply because they’re vintage watches that still tend to be tough as nails and look great with pretty much anything.
Lot 85 estimate: GBP 4,000 to 6,000
Rolex Air-King reference 5500
Alex Stevens, Watches of Knightsbridge | @alexjkstevens
We love the vintage Rolex Air-King reference 5500 (see in-depth article here), especially rarer or non-standard examples. That’s exactly what Watches of Knightsbridge has on offer here. This is an example from 1958 and features a rare dial variation with 3-6-9 Arabic numerals and dagger markers between, as well as beautiful dauphine hands. There are a number of fun variations of the early Air-King from the late 1950s and early 1960s before Rolex standardized the Air-King dial to feature the standard baton indices and stick-like hands. They present excellent value in vintage Rolex, and an opportunity to pick up rare and unique watches at reasonable prices. This lot is a perfect illustration of that.
Lot 177 estimate: GBP 2,000 to 3,000
Cartier 18k Gold Tank ‘Jumbo’
Alex Stevens, Watches of Knightsbridge | @alexjkstevens
Some have said that vintage Cartier is hot. Now, I don’t know about that, but this watch certainly is. This is an automatic Cartier Tank in 18k from the 1970s that’s ‘jumbo’ sized, which means some might find it a bit more fitting for the modern era than more petite vintage Tanks. It’s powered by a Cartier-signed ETA automatic caliber 2671, so you know there’s a solid, easily serviceable movement ticking inside. A gold Tank is simply an ideal dress watch, and while I don’t necessarily buy that Cartier is “hot” (the modern market for precious metal dress watches seems to be only so big, try as others might to tell you otherwise), this thing will never go out of style. So, as long as you’re buying a Cartier to get a quality, timeless dress watch and not looking to flip for a quick buck, this is a lot to look at.
Lot 27 estimate: GBP 4,000 to 5,000
Zenith A386 El Primero
Alex Stevens, Watches of Knightsbridge | @alexjkstevens
Finally, we’ve got a real OG, a Zenith A386 El Primero from 1971. We’ve been heavy on the El Primero A3818 ‘Cover Girl’ the past few days on account of the Revolution x Zenith revival, but the Zenith A386 is the original automatic chronograph from Zenith.
I find Alpha Hands’ guide to the A386 extremely helpful in evaluating the originality of any particular A386 example, and I’d suggest anyone interested in this watch do their due diligence by starting there.
Lot 216 estimate: GBP 10,000 to 12,000
Antiquorum
Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces Auction will take place in Geneva on March 21. There are nearly 300 lots on offer, ending with a Rolex Daytona Paul Newman reference 6241 (with an estimate stretching to $200,000). There are a ton of the expected offerings in the lead-up to the Paul Newman cover watch: a Patek Aquanaut 5064A, a Nautilus reference 5800, Nautilus reference 3700, a plethora of Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks and a bunch of special Rolex models. Here are a few more of our favorites.
Omega Speedmaster reference CK2998-1
The Omega Speemdaster CK2998-1 is already an important watch, but that’s not what caught my eye here. It’s that delicious, tropical dial. Sure, we’ll see a few CK2998 examples come up for auction every season, but how many of them look like this? According to Omega extracts, this particular example was delivered to Zaire, giving the dial a completely tropical and uniform look thanks to the hot African sun.
The Speedmaster was born in 1957, and was quickly replaced by this model, reference 2998-1. Produced only between 1959 and 1960, it’s got a clean, straight lug case, dot-over-90 bezel, and the Lemania-based caliber 321 inside. And of course, that dial.
Estimate: $46,000 to 92,000
Set of Patek Phillipe reference 3970 in 4 Metals
The reference 3970 is a perpetual calendar chronograph introduced by Patek in 1986 as the successor to the legendary reference 2499, which Patek produced in limited quantities from 1951 until 1986 (the 2499 itself succeeded the reference 1518, the first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph).
The reference 3970 was produced in white, yellow, rose gold, and in platinum. It measures just 36mm, slightly smaller than the reference 2499, making it a grail watch for many of the petite-wristed who still aspire to owning a complicated Patek. Hodinkee also has a nice overview of the reference 3970.
Here, Antiquorum is offering an example of the 3970 in each metal, all from the 1990s. It’s a pretty cool idea, as the 3970 has something slightly different to offer in each iteration.
Lot 272 estimate: $510,000 to 820,000
Tudor Submariner reference 94010 ‘Snowflake’
The blue Tudor Submariner ‘Snowflake’ is something like the platonic ideal of a dive watch to me. The case and construction is clearly Rolex-inspired and of Rolex-quality, but the design is just different enough to stand on its own as one of the icons of the last half century. The chunky hour markers are funky but practical, the blue dial and bezel pop beautifully and (to me), look even better when uninterrupted by a cyclops date window.
This particular reference 94010 comes from 1977, and has the “M.N.” engraving on the case back to signify it was made for the French Marine Nationale.
Lot 93 estimate: $16,500 to $20,500