We previewed all of the big Geneva auctions a couple weeks back, and now that results are coming in, it’s time to look back at how certain lots performed.
Phillips Geneva Watch Auction X took place on November 10, and with over 180 lots up for auction, there are a lot of takeaways. Below are a few general thoughts, as well as the watches we highlighted from our preview and what those pieces ultimately sold for at auction.
Takeaways
While not completely surprising, it’s impressive that the pink gold Rolex Ref. 6062 “Stelline” matched the Ref. 4113 split seconds chronograph (both pictured above) with a sale price of $1.940 million. It’s particularly impressive considering there are thought to be 50 Ref. 6062 models manufactured in pink gold, and only 12 Ref. 4113 models made in stainless steel.
Meanwhile, a couple chronographs with high estimates — a Patek Phillipe Ref. 1463 in stainless steel and a Paul Newman Daytona Ref. 6263 — failed to sell. It’s perhaps not too surprising the Daytona, for example failed to sell: the case is a bit polished, a couple lume plots are missing, and the pushers are not original. In a world where condition is everything, examples that are anything less than original can fail to even reach reserves, while original, mint examples hit record-breaking prices.
Other pleasant surprises below: The Zenith El Primero A386 soared past its estimate to hit a sales price of $22,500. This year is the 50th anniversary of the El Primero, so it’s certainly riding high, but it’s good to see such a historically important watch get the attention it deserves.
Another chronograph, a pink gold Movado 95M, also blew past its estimate, with a final sale price of $21,250. Not bad for a watch that had no reserve.
Also performing well was this three-register Breguet, a Speedmaster Ultraman, and a Rolex Ref. 6238. It’s nice to see some of these more mid-priced watches get the attention they deserve at auction. Some of these pieces ran past their estimates, even as higher-profile Daytonas, Pateks and the like settled in on hammer prices well within the expected. Sure, some of the Royal Oaks, Nautiluses and other popular models continued to surpass even the highest of expectations, but some lesser-known models are getting attention too. And that’s good for everyone.
See more results below.
Zenith El Primeo A386 (Phillips)
With the 50th anniversary of the El Primero this year, what better way to celebrate than by picking up the original El Primero reference? First released in 1969, the A386 was the first automatic caliber chronograph (we’ll spare the drama of which brand was first to what achievement, and summarize by saying this watch is historically important). Here it is in steel, with the classic tri-color subregisters.
Estimate: $5,000 to $8,000
Sale price: $22,500
Movado 95M 18k pink gold chronograph (Phillips)
With the sharp stepped bezel and sculpted lugs, you can tell this example is in amazing condition. Add to that the legendary 95M chronograph movement and classic three-register layout featuring Movado’s signature serpentine hands, and it’s a wonder this thing isn’t estimated to hammer at twice this price. For more on Movado 95M chronographs, read Rich Fordon’s For Your Reference on the model.
Estimate: $4,000 to $8,000 (no reserve)
Sale price: $21,250
Universal Geneve Compur Chronograph (Phillips)
A large 38mm two-register chronograph from the 1940s. It’s got a beautifully preserved black dial, luminous hands, and extracts showing it was delivered to the German Aviation Ministry.
Estimate: $6,000 to $8,000
Sale price: $10,000
Omega Speedmaster 105.012 for APC (Phillips)
The 105.012 is already one of the more rare Speedmaster references. Throw in that this one was delivered specifically to the Automovil Club Peruano — one of 50 like this — and is stamped “A.P.C.” at 12 o’clock to signify it, and you’ve got one of the best Speedmasters up for auction this season.
Estimate: $30,00 to $50,000
Sale price: $35,000
Patek Nautilus Ref. 3800 (multiple)
This is a complete personal bias, but I much prefer this smaller reference 3800 to the original reference 3700 “Jumbo”. It’s slightly smaller (measuring 37mm), features a sweeping center seconds hand, and comes in at a much more reasonably price than the hyped vintage reference 3700 or modern reference 5711. Sure, the price of the reference 3700 and reference 5711 are generated primarily by hype, but if one thinks the trend has any staying power, sinking some money into slightly less expensive stainless steel Pateks might not be a bad idea. To that end, I think the reference 3800 represents a value proposition (dare I say, an investment?).
Phillips Lot 232 estimate: $15,000 to $30,000
Sale price: $47,500
Phillips Lot 234 estimate (white dial): $30,000 to $50,000
Sale price: $52,500
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402 (Phillips)
This is an original A Series Royal Oak from the early 1970s, in amazingly sharp condition. A grail to many, this is as good an example as you’ll find for offer nowadays. Sotheby’s also has an A Series on offer this season.
Estimate: $40,000 to $80,000
Sale price: $102,500
Cartier Tank Etanche (with provenance) (Phillips)
This beautiful yellow gold Cartier Tank originally comes from the prolific collection of American socialite Barbara Hutton (also known for being married to Cary Grant at one point, one of her seven marriages). This watch ended up in the hands of another of her husbands, Count Haugwitz-Reventlow. This Tank is especially notable for having a waterproof rectangular case, a particularly challenging design feat.
Estimate: $70,000 to $140,000
Sale price: $131,250
Phillipe Dufour Simplicity (Phillips)
Perhaps the perfect modern dress watch, this white gold example bears movement number 23, and was finished in 2002, making it one of the earlier examples from Dufour, perhaps the preeminent independent modern watcher.
Estimate: $150,000 to $300,000
Sale price: $325,00
Patek Phillipe Ref. 1463 Stainless Steel (Phillips)
This 1940s chronograph from Patek Phillipe has come to be known as the “Tasti Tondi” for its distinctive round pushers. There are 67 known examples of the Ref. 1463 in stainless steel, and only 17 are known to have the silvered, two-tone dial that this one features. Phillips also has an 18k yellow gold Tasti Tondi up for auction at a much lower estimate.
Estimate: $300,000 to $600,000
Sale price: Didn’t sell, along with Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 with a high estimate
Two Rolex Moonphases: Ref. 6062 and Ref. 8171 (Phillips)
A set of rare and complicated Rolexes from Phillips. The Ref. 6062 “Stelline” is a moonphase in an Oyster case. In a recent article for Hodinkee Magazine, Ben Clymer estimates that 1,400 Ref. 6062s were made between 1950 and 1952. The sale of the black-dial Bao Dai reference 6062 in 2017 for $5 million in 2017 has shot this reference to prominence in the collecting community.
Meahwhile, the Reference 8171 is even more of an oddity. It was manufactured during the same period as the Ref. 6062, but features a snap-on case back. Clymer estimates that only 1,200 Ref. 8171s were made. He points out the oddity of the Ref 6062 commanding a bit of a premium on the market compared to the Ref. 8171 — that fact is further illustrated by these two lots, sitting side by side, but with the Ref. 6062’s estimate seemingly knowing no limit. Surely, the Ref. 6062 has been aided by high-profile sales like the Bao Dai, but the Ref. 8171 is worthy of attention in its own right. Considering the way people go crazy for stainless steel, don’t be surprised if the Ref. 8171 does well next month.
Ref. 6062 (pink gold): $1 million +
Sale price: $1.9 million
Ref. 8171 (stainless steel): $500,000 to $1 million
Sale price: $1 million
Rolex Ref. 4113 Split Seconds Chronograph (Phillips)
A rare complication from Rolex, this is a split seconds chronograph from Rolex circa 1942; only 12 are thought to have been manufactured. On top of that, it comes in a beautifully preserved stainless steel case, measuring a whopping 44mm in diameter.
Estimate: $1.5 million +
Sale price: $1.9 million