Our recent picks of the best dive watches for small wrists got us thinking about something else: What are the best accessibly priced dive watches, full stop? We decided to set the budget for “accessibly priced” at $5,000. With a modern Rolex Submariner retailing for $7,900 (we know, we know: good luck finding one at MSRP if you’re Joey First Rolex from off the street), and another classic dive watch from a major brand coming in at $5,200 (see below), it’s hard to say that any watch priced much higher would pass the “Submariner Test”. By this, we mean asking: does this watch deliver more value than a Rolex Submariner? But, there’s a ton of value to be found at every price in the under-$5,000 category; below are just a few watches that we think offer great value.
But first, what is a dive watch? To get technical, ISO standard 6425 sets the international standard for dive watches. It’s a detailed list of specs that many modern watches achieve, but some of the most important include:
Water resistance to 100m
Diving time indicator (e.g., rotating bezel)
Clearly distinguishable minute markings
Adequate readability/visibility at 25 cm in total darkness
With that, here are some of the best dive watches in 2020 priced under $5,000.
Omega Seamaster 300M
Okay, we set the budget at $5,000 because it makes an easier headline. But, the real reason that’s the budget is because of this watch. For $5,200, you can get an absolute classic dive watch from a brand with as rich a history as any when it comes to watches or diving. Why would you look anywhere else?
First released in 1993, The Seamaster 300M has achieved iconic status in the years since its release. This is thanks in large part to its association with James Bond. In 1995, Pierce Brosnan took over the role of Bond, strapping a quartz Seamaster 300M to his wrist in GoldenEye. In his later films, Brosnan wore a Seamaster 300M Chronometer, with the helium release valve often transformed into all sorts of improbable gadgets.
The modern version of the Seamaster 300M is a 42mm with a ceramic rotating bezel and Omega’s signature Co-Axial movement, a Chronometer caliber 8800. In other words, a top-of-the-line watch worth of 007’s, and your, wrist.
Price: $5,200
Tudor Black Bay 58
Tudor pretty much owns the “dive watch under $5,000” category. This spot could have been filled with the Black Bay, Pelagos, or this Black Bay 58. We chose the Black Bay 58 for its universal appeal: as the cheapest option among the bunch and measuring 39mm x 11mm thanks to Tudor’s slim in-house caliber 5402 developed specifically for this model, it’s a safe pick for nearly any wrist size. The Tudor Black Bay is also a worthy choice, but sits a bit larger on the wrist at 41mm. The Tudor Pelagos is an even more robust option, with a ceramic bezel, titanium bracelet and water resistance to 500m. But, at $4,575, it comes much closer to our $5,000 budget — if you can get a fan favorite and modern classic in the Black Bay 58 at nearly $1,000 cheaper, why not save the extra change?
The Tudor Black Bay 58 gets its inspiration for the Tudor Submariner reference 7924, but throws Tudor’s iconic “snowflake” hands on for good measure. The result is a watch that’s clearly vintage-inspired, but not so stuck on emulating one specific model that it’s boring or staid.
Finally, the specs you’d expect are all there. 200m of water resistance, unidirectional rotating aluminum bezel, in-house movement with 70-hour power reserve. This watch is even bigger on intangibles though: It’s absolutely gorgeous in the metal, distinctly drawing from Tudor’s rich dive watch heritage while still being a distinctively modern watch worthy of all the praise it deserves.
Price: $3,700
Longines Legend Diver
Like Tudor, Longines’ Heritage Collection is starting to claim serious ownership of the accessibly priced dive watch category. We seriously considered the newer Heritage Skin Diver for this slot too, but the Legend Diver wins points for having two size options (42 mm and 36mm, the latter with a gorgeous mother of pearl dial option) while also harkening back to the days of Longines Super Compressor dive watches, so often looked over by modern collectors drawn to external bezels.
Introduced back in 2007, the Longines Legend Diver draw inspiration from the vintage Longines reference 7042, one of the great dive watches of the 1960s. It’s an example of a watch built with a Super Compressor case. The Super Compressor case was patented by EPSA in 1956, and is typically identifiable by its two crowns and internal rotating bezel. But, the Super Compressor name actually refers to the spring-loaded sealing technology in the case back, which worked to seal the case tighter as water pressure increased. Many companies, from Longines and Jaeger LeCoultre to Enicar and Benrus used this cases to create sleek dive watches.
The modern Legend Diver draws on this aesthetic, create a line of vintage-inspired dive watches that stand out from many other “heritage” offerings. Being Longines, there’s a reliable ETA base movement inside, with the 36mm version offering 200m of water resistance and the 42mm version offering 300m.
Price: Starting at $2,150
Oris Divers Sixty-Five
With its plethora of Divers Sixty-Five and Aquis options, Oris also has a variety of dive watch options at the under $5,000 mark. Here, we’ll give the spot to the Oris Divers Sixty-Five for its different size options, as well as its recent foray into experimenting with different case materials. However, note that what the Aquis lacks in sizing options it surely makes up for in pure variety: with different complications and dial colors — not to mention limited editions — the Aquis has you covered if a 39.5mm dive watch is what you’re looking for.
Much the way Tudor and Longines have drawn on rich diving histories to create respectable modern watches, Oris has long relied on the Divers Sixty-Five as the stalwart of its heritage offerings. Oris has the additional virtue of remaining an independent Swiss company (though Swatch Group did absorb it at one point during the quartz crisis), one of only a few still surviving. It’s Divers Sixty-Five uses a Selitta as the base movement, flaunts 100m of water resistance, making it a go-to for buyers who want well-made Swiss timepieces at reasonable prices.
What’s more, the brand has been playing more with bronze in its offerings, releasing a line of two-tone steel-bronze Divers in 2019. It’s very 80s, but the older vintage style of the case and design balance it out to create a fun piece that’s not too gaudy.
Price: Starting at $1,900
Doxa Sub 200
Listen, if you’re all in on Doxa, by all means go for the distinctive cushion-shaped Sub 300. But, many folks reading this might be looking for something from the under appreciated diving brand that dials down the funk just a bit. For that, the new entry-level Sub 200 line is the ideal option.
Despite its history as a brand respected by true divers, modern Doxa often doesn’t get the attention it deserves. In the 1960s, divers like Jacques Cousteau, Joseph Turner and others worked with Doxa to create a dive watch the could meet their stringent standards. The orange face was meant to be more visible in murky waters, and Doxa even developed the first publicly-available dive watch with a helium escape for deep water diving.
The modern Sub 200, released at Baselworld 2019, is powered by the same reliable ETA 2824 movement that drives the Sub 300 that comes in at twice the cost. As for the rest of the specs, it’s all there: 200m of water resistance, robust 42mm x 14mm steel case, and a vintage-inspired beads of rice bracelet (with an OEM rubber strap as another option). There area number of dial color options, but if you’re going with a Doxa, you’ve got to go orange, right?
Price: $990
Seiko Prospex SRP777
If you’re looking for an even cheaper option than this Prospex, the new Seiko 5 Sports collection is a perfect budget option.
But for a little bit more cash, you can level up to Seiko’s mid-range Prospex line. It offers a range of options, mostly on the larger side, all of which are straight fire. There’s a reason a huge community of Seiko fans, modders, and stans exists online: they’re fucking great watches. The SRP777 is Seiko’s modern “Turtle”, drawing upon Seiko’s vintage 6306 and 6309 references to create a thoroughly modern Seiko diver.
For $500, you can get a badass Seiko Prospex diver that can take on anything thrown at it. You can beat it around, throw it in the washer, and it’ll still be ready for battle the next day. And, wear it to any watch meetup and dudes will dap you up with respect. With Seiko continuing to make a move up market, pick up a reasonably priced Prospex diver while you still can.
Price: $495
Halios Seaforth
We always leave room for a microbrand offering in these guides, and boy are there options in this category. Pretty much every microbrand is offering an under-$5,000 dive watch (nay, under-$2,000), often with an ETA or Selitta movement, solid water resistance, and looks that draw on some of the classic dive watches that we know and love. But, if this is to be a definitive guide (wait, what?), we’ve got to give this spot to one of the originators of the space: Halios.
Halios has been doing the microbrand thing since 2009, building something of a cult following over the ensuing ten-plus years. Founder and self-confessed watchaholic Jason Lim operates the company out of Vancouver, saying the brand’s product choices reflect his interest in 60s sports watches.
Whenever Halios offers a new Seaforth, it typically sells out quickly, leaving those of us less quick on the draw to pick up something on the pre-owned market, often at a multiple of what the original owner paid. You’ll find smooth polished bezel, GMT bezel, and of course, 60-minute dive watch bezel options, and any number of dial colors. The pastel blue dial is a fan (and Instagram favorite), a color that’s distinctively Halios.
If you’re looking for a dive watch under $2,000 and you like supporting small brands, you’re drowning options. Other notable picks in the microbrand category include: the Zodiac Sea Wolf, Baltic Aquascaphe, Monta Oceanking, Unimatic’s U1 Collection, Orion Calamity, and the Dan Henry 1970 Diver (sorry if we missed your favorite).
Price: $685 (Seaforth B, sold out)
Nomos Sport: Your Smooth Bezel Dive Watch Option
If a smooth-bezel dive watch is more your style (note that this doesn’t technically qualify as a dive watch according to ISO standards which require a dive time indicator), Nomos’ new Sport Collection is a new option. Released in 2019, the line is an exciting introduction by the German brand most known for its business-like Bauhaus designs. Lucky for its faithful following, the brand has found a way to translate its identifying ethos into a sports watch that stays true to both Nomos’ identity and to the form of the dive watch itself. If you’re not into the external bezels that define most modern dive watches, the Nomos Tangente Sport or Club Sport are great options.
Price: Starting at $4,060