By: Charlie Dunne (@books_on_time)

Recently, I have begun to develop a fascination in vintage Longines. This was initially fueled by a recent book purchase, Longines: Legendary Watches, which ultimately inspired a watch acquisition: a Longines Conquest reference 9000. Despite being late to the party, I’m thrilled to have developed an interest in a watchmaker that many collectors and enthusiasts have long held in such high regard, and to have a watch that expresses that interest.

The Longines Conquest reference 9000 houses the Calibre 19AS movement, which was introduced in 1954 (the same year in which the Conquest line was introduced). To the best of my understanding, most of the Conquest cases from this period were made by JSG S.A. out of La Chaux-de-Fonds (which is identified by the Poincon de Maitre 129 hallmark). These watches were marketed to emphasize their adventurous utility, hence the name. The steel Conquests will feature a screw down case back adorned with a fish motif medallion. Gold Conquest cases will feature a slight variation with a depiction of an ocean and stars with blue enamel.

As another example, the case back featured on the above page of Longines: Legendary Watches (right, above) has provenance tied to Captain John William Hackett who completed a record breaking trans-Atlantic flight from London to New York and back in less than 14.5 hours.

Longing for Longines

On my particular Conquest, the heavily patinated dial is a testimony to nature's effect on the hand-made. The dial vibrantly transforms from a two-tone silver to a spectrum of citrus. As a result, the applied winged hourglass logo now blends into its backdrop with complete harmony. Each of the faceted dart indexes play with the light, almost as if screaming with jealousy at the attention the dial receives. 

Regarding the black signatures, one of the first watches that truly captured my heart and provoked a deep dive for information was the Patek Philippe reference 3417. I’ll be completely transparent in the fact that this adoration was based on the “Amagnetic” font. I hate to admit it, but I am occasionally guilty of being attracted to appearance rather than what’s on the inside. Upon seeing the “Automatic” and “Conquest” on this dial, I came to the realization that one could appreciate cursive signatures, regardless of the watchmaker. It’s a bit relieving to learn I am not completely shallow. I’m certainly not trying to imply that the Longines Conquest is an alternative to the Patek Philippe Amagnetic. In the short time I have been paying attention to this Patek Philippe, I have seen a surge in interest around the reference. I don’t dislike this in any way, but I tend to be a bit of a malcontent. Whether it is intentional or not, I often find myself unwilling to become enthralled with watches that have hype.

According to the Longines Archives, the watch was invoiced on June 25th,1959 to the retailer Schweitger. Longines’ correspondence with Eric Wind mentions “Unfortunately, we do not know where this agent was based.” A bit of mystique never hurt. Perhaps this will provide an opportunity to dig a bit into the watch’s origin story.

Sometimes the accessories to a timepiece can enhance the overall romanticism. The bracelet above is described as an “extremely rare original Conquest bracelet with patent pending French engraving” on the interior clasp. It is incredibly sculpted with contrasting smooth and scaled textures with a ramped exterior. After realizing the bracelet was slightly too short (and a quick research into the effectiveness of liposuction of the wrist), I accepted the fact that the bracelet would unfortunately not be for me. I’m sure there are a few fellow watch enthusiasts who can empathize with my situation. I would compare it to that morning in your late 20s when suddenly each of your jeans have miraculously shrunk overnight. Nevertheless, there was hope at the end of the tunnel in a Longines buckle. The buckle also featured the Longines logo, prompting me to dive deeper into the history of that iconic winged hourglass.

What’s in a name?

The brand name “Longines” and winged hourglass logo were used in conjunction as early as 1874. The winged hourglass within a circle was officially registered by The Swiss Office for Protection of Industrial Trademarks in 1889, while the name was filed one year later. John Goldberger acknowledges this within his book, alluding to the fact that Longines is the oldest WIPO registered brand name with continuous use to the present day. The featured buckle here was made by Cornu & Cie, as indicated by the author as well. It’s likely that this buckle would have accompanied a Longines Ultra Chron or another steel watch of the 1960s. While some people may become absorbed with matching the exact buckle with the watch, I think it’s fair to say a few years later is still period correct. For example, in the below advertisement, a similar square, signed buckle can be seen featured on a Conquest.  

Concluding on the Conquest

Upon finishing this article, I was revisiting the “buy what you love” mantra that is often used throughout the watch community. Personally, I hope that the watches I buy provide opportunities to learn. However, I haven’t found the process to be one where I invest a significant amount of research into what I want to own. Lately, it has been books that facilitate my interest in a timepiece. I firmly believe books are an essential resource to the watch community. I know there may be others who will ask “why would I purchase a book, when I can look up information online for free?” By no means am I trying to imply the contribution of watch blogs or online media is less valuable. In fact, I think it is just as important. The fact of the matter is there is no sign of watch blogs slowing down, while print has become less integral to younger generations. Hopefully, the watch community understands the passion and effort that goes into producing print content and are just as eager to build their library next to their watch collection. This is my approach and I find it to be very fulfilling. After all, this is the approach that led me from enjoying the book, Longines: Legendary Watches, to seeking out a more personal appreciation for the brand with my very own watch.

The information found within this article is sourced exclusively through Longines: Legendary Watches by John Goldberger. A sincere thank you to the author, as this book provides a fantastic illustration of a brand I am elated to learn more about. Also, I am extremely appreciative of Eric Wind of Wind Vintage for not only graciously allowing me to purchase this Longines from his collection, but for always being so supportive of my interest to learn. A special acknowledgement to WatchPrint & Revolution Watch for not only selling horological literature, but also for supporting print media for both authors and readers alike. Companies like these two deserve the greatest recognition, appreciation & support. Finally, a very special thank you to Mike from The Open Caseback and Tony of Rescapement for the guidance and inspiration.